Friday, September 6, 2013

Proceed as the way opens


I never envisioned myself climbing a mountain to see a holy temple across from the sea and a volcano in a Balinese sarong, corset and sash that I bought speaking Bahasa Indonesia.

But here I am, doing just that.

Jagged stairs, seventy degrees sharp, two hours, straight up, no stops except for prayer.

We must keep our water bottles and sunglasses close to our bodies, we are told, or the monkeys will come after them. If they take your stuff, you will be forced to barter with them, a feat, I am told, that is more difficult than haggling at any market in the world.

I have never bartered with a monkey, and I guess I’m supposed to hope that I never will, but I believe this. Everything I have been told so far by Bu Ari, my guide to life here, always full of humor, grace, and stories of magic, has been as unmistakably true as my name is Hannah.

So I will not mess with the monkeys.

After two hours of huffing and puffing up the hill, bound like a geisha crossed with a Victorian courtesan, we get to the top to pray with our offerings of incense, and flowers, and holy water, and rice with the guidance of a priest with the sweetest smile.

There is no bathroom, so after prayer, we pee off the cliff as the monkeys watch.

Our souls relieved by holy chants, our bladders relieved by themselves.

We snack on the leftovers of our offerings to the gods, rice wrapped in banana leaves, apple-pears, miraculously appearing Oreo cookies found in Karangasam or brought all the way from Denpasar.

Life is good. Life is simple.

I must do nothing but put one foot in front of the other and try not trip on my batik sarong, initiating a terrible but stunning domino effect of American girls flying down a holy mountain deep in the Tropics, sarongs and Balinese corsets falling like ripe jackfruits from laden trees.

I can only imagine the headlines.

Proceed as the way opens, my new friend Kadek Zoe says.

And I do. 

Sunday, August 25, 2013

A Month Full of Sundays


A Month Full of Sundays
           
Hello again.

It’s been a month full of Sundays since I last wrote. Well, not a month full of Sundays exactly (I’m being hyperbolic, as I am want to do), but it has been a very long time.

Speaking of a very long time, that’s what “a month full of Sundays” means! It’s one of those wonderful, ol’ idioms that have been swept under the rug, lost to cultural dementia.

Some wonderful people have been asking ‘why a month full of Sundays?’ No, I will not stop writing this blog when 30 Sundays, pushing 8 months, has passed, on the dot.

Instead, I hope to be writing it for “a month full of Sundays” in that old-timey sense of the phrase: for a very, very long time!

It started this summer in Austin, endured a hiatus in Santa Barbara as I packed up a frenzy, and now will travel with me to Bali, where I will be living and studying for close to four months.

Fingers crossed I do not get bitten by a rabid animal! My twin sister seemed really concerned as we said goodbye in LAX that I will forget that not all dogs are my friends, especially the rabid ones.

May you too not be love-bitten by a rabid monkey as school ascends and the leaves start to fall!

Goodbye again.
For now.

Two Lines


Two Lines

I can no longer tell the difference between comedy and tragedy in our country.

On a miraculously overcast, grey morning in Austin, Texas, I find myself in a rush with a friend to get to a famous-foodie BBQ haven in time to get my spot in the 4-hour line that will take us to what’s supposed to be the best brisket in the ‘nation.’

Which nation, I’m not sure, because it’s Texas, and they’re always flip-flopping what the word ‘nation’ means. 

We have crossed the highway that makes Austin the most segregated city in Texas, which is saying something, since, well, Texas is Texas.

Our google maps app tells us we are almost there. We drive by a line that scoops around two blocks.

We’ve made it.

You jump out. I’ll park.

I jump out, giddy and tired and hungry and happy and hung-over.

This is it!

I run across the street, confident enough not to look, and spring to my place in line behind two old black women.

Have you been here before?
Yes, the first lady tells me.
OK. Great! Does this line look bad?
No, it’s not too bad, they share. But don’t forget your ID.
My ID? I ask confused.
Yeah, your ID. You need it to get in, they calmly explain.
Really? Hmm. OK. Well I have my credit card, I say.
That’s what I’m using. This is my first time too and I didn’t know either, the other lady shares.
Oh. Weird. It’s funny they ID you for BBQ, I offer in what seems to be your typical waiting-in-line chit-chat moment.
BBQ? They say and stare, tired.
Yeah, isn’t this the line for Franklin’s? I ask back.
No. I don’t know what that is, but this is the line for the food bank, they say with more patience and kindness than any white-blonde-blue-eyed girl deserves.
Oh. Thank you. I’m not from here, I reply with shame.
It’s for the needy, she says, kindly and honestly, as if it is possible I have not yet heard that there are people in America who are hungry.
Well, thank you. God bless, I say before I turn and walk away to my friend who is coming over to join me, trying to salvage the needless indignity I have created more of in an already shameless world.

We get back in our car and drive around the block, to where the famous BBQ joint actually is, checking the map for exactness this time.

There is also a line there, a massive one that crawls around the block and a bit, though it is still shorter than the line for the food bank.

Everyone in this line, however, is white.

To be honest, I would probably not have noticed this if it hadn’t been for the other line for food a minute away.

We wait. For four hours. For the best BBQ.

And it’s great. It’s one of those organic, indie, artisanal joints, 3 years old and already a staple.


And this says it all, I think.

East Austin.


People talk with reverence in this country about gentrification, about old, forlorn neighborhoods being saved by savvy, young (white) people, about glorious ancient architecture not going to waste.

I know. I’m one of them.

Or I was.
Until this summer.

It’s hard to do anything but admire those forward-thinking, crafty individuals who buy cheap, sell high, transform what has seemingly been forgotten into a gem.

I’ve always loved these stories, being the daughter of two people in the field of education addicted to fixing houses up and beating the market, thinking perhaps there is hope that as a teacher one day I too will be able to live in a beautiful home in an “up-and-coming” neighborhood.

A place like East Austin.

In case you don’t know, it’s where all the hipsters are going these days, in the fastest growing city in America, the litmus test of what will soon officially segue from alternative to mainstream yuppy.

East Austin is the home of every new-cool-it dive food truck, coffee bar, and boutique. Urban homesteading. Renewable energy.

You get the idea.

If you google East Austin, that’s what comes up these days.


What does not come up, however, are two new teaching friends of mine, both born and raised in East Austin, like their family before them for generations.

While white America paints these neighborhoods as the ‘forgotten’ jewels saved by white knights-in-shining armor, young ingĂ©nues, my friends will be the first to tell you that these neighborhoods were not forgotten.

Not by black and Latino Americans, that is.

By white America, yes (obviously), but by people, no.

White America sees chipped paint and rusty cars and thinks no one cares; it’s best for society if ‘people’ come in and fix this place up! (that whole American can-do mythology).

My friends see chipped paint and rusty cars for what they are, chipped paint and rusty cars, practical remnants of families living in a society that subsidizes their obesity and poverty and imprisonment.

What’s chipped paint when an American Apparel hoodie on your son exponentially increases the likelihood of his death?

What’s a forgotten old car yet-to-be-fixed-up when you have to work three jobs to feed your kids (because minimum wage in this country does not guarantee a life above the poverty line) and you want to at least have the time to wish them ‘good night’?

As white yuppies swoop in (and that applies to you, hipsters, too. It doesn’t matter if you voted for Barack Obama), these families have already been paying years of rent.

By now, they have purchased their rented homes two to three times over in the sacrifice of their monthly installments of minimum wages.

The only difference between them and the ‘gentrifiers’ who bring up prices and raise local taxes and push them out of their multi-generational homes is inherited privilege, the most powerful capital of them all.

If these renters had inherited anything, even just a race that would lend itself to a better chance at getting a loan in this country, that rent would operate no differently than the monthly mortgage payments my parents pay.

That I will one day pay.

After all, mortgage payments are usually cheaper than, or at worst the same as, rent.

Instead, they are powerless to brutal market forces that sweep them away, away, society a broom instead of a blanket.

The communities they have built while everyone else looked away they have no official monetary stake in, just their histories and families and stories and first –everything’s - and so what they have preserved for decades while everyone else forgot, they do not get to prosper in its prosperity.

One of the more ironic and tragic parts about this, that really gets to me, one of those brutal good-intentions-are-not-enough moments, is that it’s mostly the well-intentioned whites doing this. Those liberals who like these neighborhoods for their history and diversity. The ones least repulsed by co-existence and interracial-anything.

Inadvertently, the only white people who potentially can act as allies to minority communities in America are also destroying the very communities that attracted them there in the first place.

If that’s not the epitome of a catch-22, I don’t know what is.


What can be done?  we ask each other as we wait for 4 hours for the gourmet BBQ around the corner from the food pantry.

We put our privileged, elite, private-small-liberal-arts-college heads together and talk about mixed-income housing, and what if Habitat for Humanity could be extended to pre-existing houses where people already live, where people could own a house the minute their rent equaled its value plus inflation, about our inherited privilege, invisible and visible, tangible and ephemeral, about how wrong it all is.

And yet, there is this: how we use it everyday, how we will not give it away, how we are here this summer to fight summer learning loss (that’s right, that fancy theater camp you went to is why you now go to the very school you do) that accumulates with low income, first generation students, who end up losing 3-4 years of education by the time they graduate high school, if they graduate at all, because they spent their summers in front of the TV or babysitting instead of out in the woods. Or even at the local YMCA.

And yet, though we mean well, though we care, we will never completely understand, and as we are teaching and working 70-hour weeks for our kids, we are still accruing the interest on the white privilege we inherited.

In fact, we got these jobs because of the schools we go to, because of their cache, and thus we are here because of what we have inherited: whiteness.


It is a Saturday morning in East Austin. It is miraculously grey and cloudy. There are two viciously long lines for food. They are almost the same length, but they are color-coded. (To say America is now post-racial is colorblind).

Most of the people in each line do not know of the other line, a few blocks away.

There are two lines, and they are so set upon this earth, that it still surprises me later how unclear our definitions for comedy and tragedy are, how they bleed and knot and tangle into each other, how our country has become a farce.

Two lines, so physically close to each other but infinitely set a part, infinitely divided, should never make sense. 

Friday, July 26, 2013

p.s.

p.s. - There is one detail from the more expected glories of the evening I just can't leave out: The bathroom stalls don't have doors. Instead, you pee behind a billowing Texas or American flag. I know it's intended patriotically (the joint represented the demographics of any Republican national convention since 1960) but the irony is sweet. Is shitting in such close proximity to the stars and stripes perjury? Or is it a true-blue American act to unfurl your bowels with the sign of the Republic in your face? Let's also not forget that Texas likes to play it safe, putting her best die-hard, patriotic foot forward while still preparing for mutinous succession and considering itself its own nation, on to itself, with its own "national beer of Texas." Food for thought! Good night/morning for real this time, y'all!

Instead, picture this.


Instead, picture this.

It’s funny.

It’s never the things that I most look forward to that I want to write about, even those moments that fulfill and even exceed expectations, the ones you turn over and over again in your head, rough rock turning to skipping stones.

Instead, it’s those extraordinary moments that catch you by surprise, when you slurp air in real fast and you get hiccups that last longer than that singular, ordinary flash of magic.

Tonight, I could tell you about dancing in this dream-come-true-obsessive-list-making-tourist kind of way in THE honky-tonk bar of America, of Bourbon sweet tea, and a dancing teacher like a borderline-anorexic, older Kristen Chenoweth on the brink of a nervous breakdown, full of sexists chirps about how “you must dance with the lady to your chest to make it clear that only one person is making the decisions, and it’s not her.”

But I won’t.


Instead, picture this.


It is minutes before your new friend’s birthday.
It is now pouring with a fury reminiscent of a protest, you’re just not sure for what. 
It started off as heat lightning flashes on the drive home, but soon scattered into the real thing, thunder and all.

You wait to wish your friend happy birthday before you leave. You miss your bed, the inevitable conclusion of any excursion, big or small.

But the rain! And the thunder! And the lightning! So furious the world looks white and silver as if consumed and smudged by smoke and dust.

So you look for a trash bag in the dark pantry of a strange co-op, rumored to be filled with unfazed rats, with a strange hipster boy with a perennial smirk. (Strange, as most Austin hipsters you have encountered at parties such as this are sweetie pies!)

You finally find a sturdy, durable black garbage bag, and burst a hole for your head through it, pulling it over your coral lace vava-voom dress like a penguin’s best suit.

You clonk forward in your lovingly tattered boots, into the dark, silver night.
You are alone on the street.
Ordinarily, you wouldn’t do this. You acutely know the risks.

But it is raining! And empty! And you are free! And alone!

The city is flooding, and gushing, as if just for you, as if it trusts you to see it a bare mess, and stay anyway.
It is ripping at the seams. It cannot contain itself.


And it’s warm!
You cannot remember the last time you walked in a warm night storm.
Perhaps summer arts camp when you were 15?


It doesn’t matter.
Every summer night and dream is contained in the beautiful tearing apart of this day’s dryness.
You are in a trash bag, in a lace party dress, in well-walked boots.


You are alone, and you are glorious.  

Sunday, July 14, 2013

The Kids These Days


The Kids These Days


My kids crack my heart open every day, with the picks and jacks of their voices.

And a lot of the time, it’s the absence of those same voices that does it, that most haunting kind of absence that is dually a presence.

But they also put it back together again, everyday, with those same voices and forgiving, curious eyes.

Sometimes they cannot complete their homework because they lose their one and only pencil on the bus, or they have to call the police to report things I have never seen.

But they show up anyway.

They show up, and they ask questions, and they laugh, and they smile, and they learn despite the fact that they are 12 and they already have to carry the world.

No one asked them if they could bear it. But they do.

They enjoy scavenger hunts, and scarf down ham sandwiches and Oreos and apple juice boxes from brown paper bags.

I am never bored when I am with them, and yet this work could not be more diametrically opposed to my life at college.


At school, my life is for myself alone.

My learning is for me.

The tasks at hand usually involve identifying and unraveling the most challenging and paradoxical interpretative problems I can find.

It’s never about the main idea, what the author meant. No one is ever given the benefit of the doubt. It’s always intricate, and daring, and wild, and fancy, and blind-siding.

Intellectual masturbation in a mirror with other intellectual masturbators. And it’s exciting and flattering and plenty fun.

Here, pushing my cranium to its limits no longer centers my days.
Now it’s about pushing my heart to the brink of extinction, until it feels like it will burst irreparably.

But it doesn’t.

And you go forth.

It’s no longer about being the smartest, about dismantling and wielding structures of language and logic, about winning and everyone knowing it.

It’s about making kids come alive.

It’s about plucking every string and hitting all the notes in the orchestra that is every class, until they find their instrument of choice, their singular voice, and they can play it themselves, out loud, without fear, all night long.

And in doing so, you inadvertently find your own.

Saying yes. Saying no.
Because you can, because you must.
If not you, then who?

It’s no longer about finding that microscopic insight that breaks century-old arguments.

It’s about finding that core idea, the concept you stake everything on - a lesson, a day (how much more now you understand the value of just one day), the whole wide world - and not letting go of it until it has come alive inside each and every busy, buzzing, brimming head and heart.

It’s about the basics. It’s about building the world up with them, all hands and all bricks on deck.

It’s about that one kid’s smile in recognition of the world coming into light.

It’s about simple things.

Writing your name with pride. Saying it out loud to your peers. Raising your hand, the flag of your own sovereignty.

My humanity has never been as challenged as much by anything as now, by teaching.

By this rag-tag team of twelve year olds, with their love of Selena Gomez and The Hunger Games. By their questions about pandas, and their giggles and their rapture over the mechanics of a chicken wing from the grocery store.

By having to forgive and offer, forgive and offer, again and again. 

It doesn’t matter if they don’t do your homework. If they don’t listen. If they chew bubble gum. It does, but it really doesn’t.

They are here, and that is everything. They are here, and so are you. 



Some of their questions I know how to answer. What’s the difference between a negative and a positive feedback loop?

Some I do not know how to begin to answer. I never will. How and why and how did people let the world get so messed up?

They live this question every day, and I can only open the door and call on them to ask and live it with me. 

Saturday, July 6, 2013

Just in Case


Just in Case

All I really want is for my Mom to come and pull me out of the water.[1] 

Her skin speckled and smelling of coconut cream. Her arms like the Jaws of Life, the girth of the old sycamore under which I am now treading water.

I am 21, no longer 6 or 7 or so, splashing about in our backyard pool.

If I want to get out of the water, I have to pull myself out. If I am tired or cold or hungry or weary or weak or thirsty, it’s on me.



There are no clean-laundry-smelling beach towels open wide to pat you down dry and roll you into a Mama-love-taco. She does not place your strawberry face on her chest. You are not rocked back and forth under the old oak in the late afternoon quiet.

Let me make myself clear. It’s not that she no longer wants to. She would, if she could. She would, if she knew.

She would even drive to the nearest CVS to find the exact coconut lotion, and rummage in the linens closet upon her return to find the exact checkered towel – the bright, colored one you loved so much, the favorite you fought your twin sister for every summer pool party and beach day, unrelenting, the one you’d scramble to find and hoard on weekend mornings in anticipation of the possibility of its usage, before putting on your tankini while everyone else put on theirs and lathered up.

For one, you cannot call her now because you are in a nature preserve for endangered species in the Hill Country. There is no cell reception.



You know she would want to if she could, if she knew, and that is why even if you could call her, you don’t.

What would you tell her?

For starters, that you have discovered something small-beautiful-big from a new friend.

It is this, that you cannot hear yourself think if and when you wear a wide, straw-brimmed hat under a waterfall in drought season. Enough water to pound out the constant stream of consciousness, but not too much to tip over the hat that creates the echoing boom orchestra with its water-catching rim, the only sound you have ever known more powerful than that of your thoughts playing tag and running away from each other and colliding.

It is bliss, and you’ve called other things that before. You would never have needed all that talking and medicine if you could just stand under a perfectly diminished waterfall in Texas Hill Country in drought season.



After that, you would probably mention the highway of light and dust particles erect in a column between the leaf cover of the Sycamore and the water where you float below.

This would lead you to mention last night’s fireworks, and does she remember that your favorite ones have always been those she once described as champagne bubbles, the simple golden floating kind, like phoenix ash and ember? Does she know you remember, and does she?

What a silly question.

Of course she does, even if it is no longer a conscious knowing, but the deep bedrock kind the grass forgets in its greenness.

Eleven-year old girls do not easily forget when their Mother paints their loves in the language of champagne, a feat almost more spectacular than the fireworks themselves.

If there was still time, you’d mention how odd it is that no one ever talks about the after-show of the after-works, the smoke tendrils like poky dahlias dried white in the flash of a drought, cosmic spider webs, the plumes of dirty street doves, the tumbleweeds of our sky.
Unplanned and unassuming, this show even more miraculous than the first.



Same goes for the rainbow metallic spectacle of the fireworks’ reflection in the city’s skyline towers, color rolling up and down like the belly of a magical snake called from its sleep to dance.

Even though you cannot call her now, and you wouldn’t if you could, because you chose to come here, as you must, and stay, as you must, and want to, as you should, you know she knows somewhere that you are trying to feel the beauty of the dripping water in this prehistoric oyster bed and all its green trees, on the inside, trying to suck it in through your belly poking out of the water as you float.

Just in case, you write it down to find out later for sure. When the moment has passed. Just in case.

ps- Was it the mother swallows overhead, ducking in and out, coming and going, again and again, to feed their babies, as I swam and floated for no one but me?







[1] Isn’t it a travesty that not all Mom’s are capitalized, at least almost all?!?!