Thursday, October 24, 2013

Mountains


Mountains

Grace can be found in a mango.
Monkeys become squirrels.
Anxiety is hiking up a volcano in the dark.

These are the three things that I know to be true this week.

You probably know by now that I find Wherever you go, there you are to be the truest truth, the core of my life. You might even be sick already of me telling you this over and over again.

But I will continue saying it to you, again and again, anyways.

Because it is still the truest truth, its truths manifest in new ways each time I get up from my bed.

Monkeys become squirrels. They really do. The most exotic, take-your-breath-away things -- the animals, the foods, the dwellings, the outfits, the rituals, the vistas -- those images you see as a child in National Geographic that later inspire you to turn your life upside down, again and again, each time promising never to do it again, but doing it again anyway. And sooner than you can ever imagine monkeys are just squirrels trying to steal your food, no different from the fat squirrels back at school that try to steal your morning muffin. And so you may be climbing a mountain in a tropical jungle in Balinese Hindu costume as monkeys stalk your ascent. But you are still just you.

I thought I already knew this. I thought I had learned it again and again, at 3, at 8, at 10, at 12, at 17, at 19, now at 21. But I seem to never really believe this lesson, forgetting each time, until the moment again when a monkey is as exciting as a squirrel. And perhaps a squirrel has now become even more exciting than a monkey. And you are you.

Despite the fact that animals are just animals, and food is just food, and people are just people, wherever in the world you are, comfort and home still constitute the gravitational forces that govern our orbits.

And our sanity.

I have eaten fried rice, nasi goreng, each day for breakfast and lunch for 8 weeks now. Sometimes I get lucky and get fried noodles instead. It is getting harder for me to eat it now. I have 12 days before I get to cook for myself and eat what I want. 12 days. And just when 12 seems like the biggest number in the world, at dinner tonight, eating noodles (thank God it wasn’t rice) with MSG, Ibu offers me a mango. She has never offered me one before. But now she does, peeling it with her miraculously slender hands. It is my salvation, the lull in the storm of my day of tires popping and ants colonizing my vitamins and anti-Semitic facebook messages from Indonesians who do not like that my religion is listed as Jewish.

God is a ripe mango offered just in the nick of time. Grace is one too. So is salvation, and redemption, and transcendence.

And it turns out that I was wrong. I thought I had explored the unfathomable depths and nooks and crannies of my lifelong struggle with anxiety. I thought no personal experience could manifest my anxiety in a new or shocking way. Stress chests, migraines, teeth crack, jaws clenching, nightmares, every insecurity or bad memory a merry-go-round for my anxiety to reincarnate itself. But climbing Mount Batur, an active volcano here in Bali, at 4 in the dark morning surprised me and proved me wrong, literally taking my breath away. Climbing in the dark, on hands and knees, falling on my butt on jagged volcanic rock and sand, up, up, up, not enough air, panting and heaving chest. Pushing yourself up and up even though you feel like your lungs will split open all the while everything around you is submerged in darkness and there is no scenery for you to engage with to justify your pain.

Anxiety is the physical experience of climbing a volcano in the dark. They are exactly the same, although one is entirely physical and one is entirely psychological. Either way, you have to go up even though there is only pain and no beauty. Either way, there is nothing beautiful to distract you from the pressure in your lungs and your inability to grasp anything. Either way, your lungs feel like an elephant is sitting on them. You do not know what you are striving towards on your cut hands and knees. You cannot see it. But somehow you still know it is better than the only alternatives: going down or being trampled by others in your refusal to move on. And so climbing Mount Batur in the middle of the night feels exactly like having acute anxiety disorder at its worst. I had to remind myself again and again mid-climb that I was in fact studying abroad in Bali, climbing a volcano in the dark, and that the pain in my chest and my inability to make out the world around me was not due to a reemergence of a former clinical disorder, but an actual physical mountain that was no longer just inside my mind.

And so I believe in monkeys, and mountains, and mangos.

I especially believe in mangos.


Thursday, October 10, 2013

A Miracle


A Miracle

There are two images from the past week that I must share with you.

The first is of flowers floating in a jungle. The second is of a body on fire.

Deep in the mountains of Bali, farmers grow big, blue, bursting hydrangeas. They cut them three days before bringing them to market and place them in the river behind a log to learn how to live in water. If they just cut them, they die within three days. But if they stay for three days in the tropical mountain jungle river with its incessant flow of oxygen and nutrients, they will live for over a week.

I came across bunches of hydrangeas floating like this in the river in a clearing on the edge of the forest. They were so buoyant and blue and trembled gently with the river’s current. I was covered in mud at the time from falling down five times and sopping wet from swimming and jumping into cool places. The elegant, man-touched bouquets of hydrangeas floating in the river outside the thick jungle were so improbable, but also so beautiful, like a dream where everyone goes to gym class in tuxedos and ball gowns.


In a village in Bali, just as the flowers are being taken out of the river to be brought on a motor scooter by way of a precariously bumpy road to market, a forty-year old priest is being wrapped in white cloth and placed in a wooden box atop a platform carried by many sweaty men all dressed in white. A white and gold bull made of wood and paper is ahead of him, and both will be moved in circles a holy three times.

There will be masses of crowds in white, moving away from the rice paddies down the hill to the clearing by the river across from the trash dump. Eventually the excited and reverent crowd will grow quiet as the technicalities of what comes next become apparent. Men hack away the inside of the cow statue. They try and place the man wrapped in white cloth inside it, but he is too tall for the enclosure, so they hack away some more.  A female relative collapses, unable to endure the expectation that she will not cry in the face of his undoing, thought to slow down the cremation and the departure of his soul. Another woman drops, a domino effect of emotional and physical release.

The funeral pyre is lit with a blowtorch, and the naked body burns, and it turns black and charred, and it falls diagonally, head towards the ground, but no one can do anything about it because it is on fire. Across the river a trash fire has been burning all day, and will continue to burn even after the pyre is gone. Intermittently, there are loud popping noises, which we guess and later learn for sure to be the organs exploding, the testicles and the brain. It is violent, and awful, and I do not think I will ever buy again that death is beautiful, that the hearts and lungs failing us are beautiful. Even though I am supposed to because this society believes in reincarnation and this cremation is supposed to be joyous.

This is where I crash into my cultural fence in an attempt to jump over:

Bunches of blue flowers floating in the river are beautiful; I cannot see the beauty in this, only in that the former remains possible in a world full of the latter.

And that is a miracle.





ps- It is the same with the air outside my room. It always smells of trash burning or of fresh frangipani flowers that have just fallen from the tree. Never both. Never something in between. Only one at a time.

Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Two Nightgowns


Two Nightgowns

            There is also this.
           
The next night Ibu brought me two nightgowns wrapped in plastic.

One was red and pink and covered in hearts and frills. The other was a traditional batik print. 

She knocked gently on my door, and placed them gently on my bed, not looking me in the eye but smiling when I said thank you, these are beautiful: Terima kasih, Ibu, cantik!

She had not eaten breakfast with me, but she had brought my friends cookies and coffee that afternoon when they had come over for moral support, me wanting to runaway but needing to stay.

In her soft face and her calm fingers and humble grin, I relax into her goodness.

I’m not sure what she and Bapak think now about the Yahudi and the Protocols and who caused this earthquake and that tsunami and the poverty here.

And although I have always been devoted to the world of thoughts, although I think they are the most powerful and important possessions we have in this world, just for a moment, their thoughts no longer matter to me.

They have come back to me, with nightgowns and coffee and cookies.

And that is more than enough for me to stay and sleep the night.

           
Bapak, more distant and gruff and awkward than Ibu, texts me sometime before I leave that he has already told his Quranic group about what I had said and that they are very interested to hear it, that I should come back and come speak to them. (them, a group of Javanese devout Muslim men, me, a Jewish American woman!)

Just as extraordinary is that Bapak does not speak this level of English, so that he must have taken the effort to Google translate, a recent skill, what he wanted to say to me before texting me.


On my last night, they take me to meet the extended family. When the inevitable religion question comes up, they do not hide my Jewishness: Dari Yahudi.

They ask me to take pictures with them and their family anyway.

They ask me to sit beside sister and grandfather and brother-in-law and nephew and permutations of all of the above after being fed more tea, more cookies, more snacks.


On the morning I depart, Bapak says with his eyes to his feet, Ma’af, sorry if we make any mistake.

I smile and try to look him in the eye, Tidak apa apa.

This literary means as “No what what” but means in actuality something closer to “It is nothing.”


It is nothing.
           

But to me, it is everything. 

Saya Yahudi


Saya Yahudi.


I do not know where to begin.

Every possible starting point for this story is both true and false.

There is no right way to tell this story, but it is the most important story I have ever had to tell.

A story so cosmic, and yet so personal, at the same time it makes me feel like I have fallen off the face of the planet.


And perhaps I have.


I will move from the microscopic to the cosmic, the only hope for my sanity lying in a gradual transition of scale that will not further destroy my balance and sense perception.

.
.
.

Here are the few things I knew to be certain before tonight, as of 6 o’ clock this evening, when they were eclipsed:

1) I am an American Jewish woman who has been living with a Muslim Javanese family for a week.

2) In the first ten minutes of my arrival at their home, they asked me about my faith. I lied, saying I believed in God but had no official religion, instructed to do so by my program director who was concerned for my safety.

3) This family has done nothing but feed me and worry about my wellbeing the past week.

4) Two days ago, when I asked a Muslim cleric at an Islamic boarding school why Indonesia doesn’t recognize Judaism, his wife laughed about the destruction of one of Indonesia’s two existing synagogues by the government last year because “it was a waste of space.”

I give her the benefit of the doubt, knowing Indonesians usually laugh not out of cruelty, but in the face of awkward social situations.
.
.
.

Here is what I now know, the immutable paradigm shift, my heart breaking, the world closing and opening, although to attempt to number these instances would be absurd:

My host sister was reading her history book.

I couldn’t resist asking her if Indonesian schools taught the Holocaust.

She said a little.

I asked her what they taught about it.

She said she didn’t remember what it was about, that she would have to look it up.


(And I’m thinking that if you don’t remember a lesson on the genocide of 6 million people less than a hundred years ago, that doesn’t count as teaching.)

.
.
.

I run to my room to get my computer to pull up Google translate.

The whole family is in the kitchen and this is my chance.

After 150 hours of thinking non-stop about the minor but major detail of my Jewishness, I cannot resist this crack in the surface of our usual chats about showering, and food, and school, and my progress or lackthereof in Indonesian language.

I am already lucky in this moment, living in the house of a government worker who can afford the luxuries of wifi and a computer.

With the majority of other Indonesians, this alignment of opportunities would not have been possible, and we would have chatted more about my bathing and sleeping in the few words I know how to speak.

Thus begins 3 of the most painful hours of my life. The closest I have ever come to fighting for survival, with nothing but Google translate and the slowest wifi connection I have ever encountered to aid my uphill battle.

To recount what was said in full is a feat so overwhelming I will not bother to attempt it.

I will have to settle with telling you what is so imprinted on me that I will not be able to sleep if I do not write this here, to you, to this abyss of code and pixel, my friends and family and the strangers far away.


So, Basically, Um…..

What started off as Were you taught that 6 million Jews were killed in the Holocaust? became Some of them were my family became That is why I am an American became I am a Jew.

Saya yahudi. Saya yadudi. Saya yahudi. Saya yahudi. Saya yahudi. Saya yahudi. Saya yahudi. Saya yahudi.

Their faces crackled, shrunk, contorted.

But you said you had no religion, was typed fervently, as was I was told not to tell you I’m Jewish because of anti-Semitism here.

And then the crack in the surface of mundane conversation about tea and crackers and baths split open irreparably, consuming any semblance of order, or sanity.

Saya yahudi.

The voracious typing exchanges between father orating and daughter typing and me typing back and mother listening began and did not stop until it was dark outside, and dinner had passed, and my Javanese dance lesson and the time to bathe had come and gone.

My host father, a kind man who has told me every morning to be careful -- hati-hati -- on the way to school, dictated these words among many others to his typist of a daughter for two hours:

Well, don’t worry. I know that not all Jews are evil. Not you.

You are not like them.

But it’s a real issue the Jews.

Have you read your people’s Protocols of the Elders of Zion? Jewish world domination is a real problem.

Why else do you think Indonesia is poor if not because of the Jews?

Your people control the media and the energy and the government of the USA.


But Bapak, I type back as if my life depends on it, which it does in some way more important than blood and flesh, there are only 6 million of us in the US. We are less than 0.02% of the world’s population. We are educated, yes, but for a group so educated, we have never had a president and no one can imagine when we ever will, there is still so much prejudice.

6 million people is more than enough with all the money and Nobel’s you have.

But Bapak the Protocols were proven as forgery and propaganda 90 years ago. And it led to the murder of 6 million of my people. This is why we Jews support Israel despite our moral qualms because even after 6 million dead, a government official with a degree from Indonesia’s best university believes this document to be the truth, I try to explain.

We discussed it at community meeting last Sunday (after we ate dinner together and you wished me a good sleep, I am now thinking).


And thus begins my descent down to madness, to trying to argue with ignorance, to prove through google translating Wikipedia summaries of 2000 years of Jewish and European history why the Protocols are dangerous, why he should not believe them.

I first attempt to use Indonesia’s Wikipedia to get him a history of anti-Semitism.

Unlike the thousands of words of the English entry, it has five sentences.

(And thus, I’m thinking, why the Internet does not liberate or educate us, but inevitably perpetuates our biases in that the sources we are drawn to only confirm our reality)

I write about my family, and how Holocaust denial in the Muslim world and the widespread belief in anti-Semitic propaganda (i.e. educated upper middle class government workers) scares American Jews into pardoning Israel of its PTSD excessive sins of retribution and force, believing more than ever in the necessity of a backup solution because not much has changed, which justifies and enables more Israeli force, which fuels more anger and anti-Semitism, and so on, and so on, and so on.

I write about how stereotypes of Jews as bankers come out of us being allowed to do that one ‘dirty’ job in Medieval Europe.

I write about how there is a lot to criticize Israel for, but that much of the Muslim world shoots itself in the foot by focusing on paranoid lies as opposed to the condemning truths, pushing the West away.

I write about how really the Jews and the Palestinians were both fucked by the British, who have now conveniently wiped their hands clean of the mess and point anti-Semitic fingers at Israelis from the safety of their academic institutions, blacklisting them for their own destruction, their own guilt, how colonialism of different kinds exported a European millennia of hatred on to the middle east and ran fast and far away, how Palestinians and Israelis, Muslims and Jews, get caught up hating each other when they were fucked over by the same people.

I write about the power of keeping criticism to the truth, about how many Westerners and Jews would respond differently if lies weren’t perpetuated.

I write about all the evidence to the contrary of the protocols.


My host father says he agrees. But then he pulls out a book on how the Star of David is the symbol of Satan, and thus begins round 2 of why this scares me, why this is why I lied, why this is why American Jews give Israel a carte blanche.

He opens a slideshow on how America caused the earthquake in Haiti with submarines, how the tsunami here was a nuclear war crime pulled off by a country which he insists is run by Jews.

I tell him that he overestimates America’s capabilities, that we may have bombs but that we are not God, that we do not control the laws of geology.

I tell him that I understand the paranoia because my country has done horrific things, but that this goes too far.



Have I made it clear that this is a man who has welcomed me into his home, a stranger, a man who told me to be careful this morning, a man who works for his government as a social worker, who has it good here, a man with a degree from the best university?

And so my heart is breaking.
And so my lungs are closing.
I am free, and yet I am not.
I do not have to lie, but I do not think it is in my head that they turn on the TV at dinner instead of attempting to talk to me this time.

Even though he now tells me he understands why the Protocols are scary.
Even though he tells me he sees how they are just the same as the all-Muslims-are-terrorists lies in the US.
Even though he tells me he sees why American Jews are afraid.
Even though he tells me he understands what I mean when I say that it is easier for the government to control you through hatred than the complicated truth that fosters compassion.
Even though he promises he will take this back to his Muslim discussion group.
Even though he passes me the rice.

But I am just one man, he says, and my community is small. And Indonesia is big.
I know, I tell him, but at least you are someone and that is more than nothing.


We eat a very late dinner in the light of the television.
Ibu boils me water to bathe in as usual.


But unlike the seven nights before this one, as I write this to you now so that I won’t be alone in my heart breaking, no one has come to knock on my door, and ask about waking me up, and say goodnight.

Unlike the seven nights before this one, the door to the bathroom and kitchen and the bedroom of Ibu and Bapak is bolted.

I am alone.

It is true I wished earlier this week, never having a minute to myself here, food always being stuffed on my plate against my wishes by Ibu and Bapak, to be left alone in peace.

But not like this.

This is alone-alone, alone in my aloneness, not the quiet camaraderie of being by oneself in a house with people who have your back.

I have learned many things in this void of a night, but this one stands out now as I prepare to face a dark room and my dreams:

Aloneness and peace are not the same thing.

Before in my life, peace and alone meant the same thing. But this is a new kind of alone, in an island on an island in an island on an island, and so on, until the nothingness threatens to crack onto itself.

 I sit here typing, this clattering of keys a pathetic rendering of this ferocious night, thinking that perhaps stories might be able to save humanity, that I should hit the road telling the story of my people to the whole world, not to justify Israel but so that it and we can be understood, so that compassion can be created to tear down the cowardly structures of absolutes and lies, how we need a collective democratic timeline of the conflict starting with Adam, how I want to kick the Brits in the nuts for their hypocrisy and still-infamous anti-Semitism, how many double standards regarding my people there are, how the hateful paranoia about us is the only form of minority prejudice I can think of that is twistedly flattering while fatal while insulting, how the treatment of the conflict insults the intelligence and ability of Arabs as equally capable agents, whether or not Ibu will wake me up tomorrow, whether the subtle differences in body language and eye contact might be in my head, how I hope they are in my head, how I hope I am wrong.

I am no longer just a girl in a house of a kind stranger telling me to be careful each morning on the way to school.

And perhaps I never was.